A Country That Grows Upward
Most people think of Georgia and picture wine, Tbilisi, the old town with its sulphur baths and carved wooden balconies. But anyone who truly understands Georgia looks up. Because this small country on the Black Sea possesses something found nowhere else in Europe: mountains that have remained wild and untouched – with millennia-old towers, medieval churches perched on summits, glaciers reaching 5,000 metres, and villages where time moves differently.
Kazbegi. Svaneti. Gudauri. Three names – three worlds. And all just a few hours from Tbilisi
Kazbegi: The Mountain That Stays With You
Drive north along the Georgian Military Highway – the ancient route connecting Tbilisi with Russia – and within an hour you understand why Georgia changes people. The road cuts through gorges, passes the medieval fortress of Ananuri above the Jinvali Reservoir, and climbs above 2,000 metres until the world suddenly becomes wide and still.
Then it appears: Mount Kazbek, at 5,047 metres one of the highest peaks of the Greater Caucasus – and directly below it, on a hilltop at 2,170 metres, the Gergeti Trinity Church. A 14th-century stone church that looks as though someone placed it precisely where heaven and earth touch. It is one of the most photographed sights in Georgia – and in real life, even more dramatic than any photograph.
The hike up takes an hour and a half to two hours and is moderately challenging. Those who prefer can take a local 4×4 taxi. The view from the top – across the valley, the glacier, the villages – is simply unforgettable.
The small town of Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) below is not a tourist destination in the conventional sense. There are good guesthouses, local restaurants, fresh mountain air, and a rhythm that immediately settles over the visitor. At least one night should be spent here – preferably two.
Gudauri: Skiing on Caucasian Snow
Those who visit Georgia in winter head to Gudauri – and are usually surprised by what awaits them. Situated at 2,196 metres along the Georgian Military Highway, just 120 kilometres from Tbilisi, this ski resort has pistes running from 1,900 to 3,260 metres, with over 80 kilometres of groomed trails – at a fraction of what you would pay in the Alps.
Gudauri is not a high-gloss resort. It is genuine, raw, and spectacular. The chairlifts include models from Austrian manufacturer Doppelmayr, the FIS has designated official competition runs, and the season runs from December to mid-April – in heavy snow years, well into May.
Particularly popular: heliskiing. Swiss and Austrian companies fly skiers by helicopter to altitudes of up to 4,400 metres – into terrain no lift can reach. The area around Gudauri and Kazbegi is considered one of the most thrilling freeride and backcountry destinations in all of Eurasia.
But those simply seeking relaxed family skiing will also find what they are looking for. Blue, red and black runs, an international crowd, good mountain huts – and afterwards a warm dinner at a Georgian guesthouse
Svaneti: The End of the World – and It Is Magnificent
If Georgia has a secret, it is called Svaneti. The region in the northwest of the country is difficult to reach – the road from Zugdidi to Mestia is mountainous, sometimes adventurous – and precisely for this reason it has remained authentic to this day.
Svaneti is home to the Svans, one of the oldest peoples of the Caucasus. And it is home to the Svan Towers: massive medieval defensive towers from the 9th to 12th centuries rising above every village. There are over 200 of them in the region – many are UNESCO World Heritage sites. The small town of Mestia, with its modest airstrip, is the starting point for all expeditions into the high mountains.
Those who venture further reach Ushguli – at 2,200 metres one of the highest permanently inhabited villages in Europe, and also a UNESCO World Heritage site. The backdrop: glaciers, towers, stone houses, horses grazing in meadows, and above it all the Shkhara, at 5,193 metres the highest peak in Georgia.
The classic trekking route from Mestia to Ushguli takes three to four days and is one of the most beautiful long-distance trails in the entire Caucasus. Those with less time can take a 4×4 vehicle – that itself is an experience.
What to eat: In Svaneti, Kubdari appears in its most original form – the bread comes from the village, made by the grandmother of the guesthouse. Alongside it: mountain herb tea, local cheese, and the silence of the mountains.
Conclusion: Georgia’s Mountains Are a World of Their Own
Kazbegi humbles you. Svaneti leaves you speechless. Gudauri gets under your skin. Anyone who has once been to Georgia’s mountains understands why more and more people come not just as tourists – but to stay. The air, the vastness, the silence, the warmth of the people in the mountain villages – this is not a travel catalogue. This is real life.
